Centros culturales en Maputo: adónde ir para ver películas, arte, charla, música y hasta partidos de fútbol

Para un sinnúmero de eventos culturales y sociales, sacar libros de la biblioteca o incluso para reunirse con amigos a comer o tomar algo rico, vale la pena tener en cuenta los centros culturales en Maputo (también el centro brasilero y el portugués).

Centro Cultural Franco-Moçambicano

La final de fútbol - partido entre Italia y Alemania - en el Instituto Cultural Moçambique-Alemanha (ICMA)

Unmasking African stereotypes in the media

Loved this recent article by Imran Garda: “Nine signs the journalism on Africa you’ve just encountered is trash”. It follows the spirit of the blog “Africa is a country” where it was posted:

The ‘African Skies’ even made it
into the titles of a couple of
movies, yikes!

“to challenge and destabilize received wisdom 
about the African continent and its people 
in Western media”

It’s ironic (or very, very sad) that they have to clarify that:

“The title of the blog is ironic 

and is a reaction to 

old and tired images of ‘Africa’. ”

With a lot of irony, Garda lists what he considers the worst nine stereotypes that Western media use when talking about Africa. Quite a range, including darkness and sunsets, issues with languages and accents, wars and dictators, singing and dancing. A funny article to show that Africa is not a monolitic reality, and definitely, definitely not a country.

The point of the article also falls in line with our previous postings on Africa as seen by the media (Spanish) and in campaigns (English), or in international aid (Portuguese).  For the whole article, go here.

Would like to have other perspectives? See what Africans from different countries have to say about themselves here, how a group of men are making fun of how the film industry portrays them, and how Nigerian writer Chimamanda Adichie brilliantly challenges that single story of Africa.

Why a good language instructor is key to really get a culture

Our first professor, Arsénio,
during a CouchSurfing event

Two years ago, when we first saw a position in Mozambique, we didn't know much about the country. A little bit more than a year later, when we first set foot in Maputo, after consulting many encyclopedias, studying several academic articles and international development reports, and reading local websites, blogs and newspapers, we had much more information, but not necessary a full understanding of the people and customs. The only Mozambican we had met up to that point was a lovely woman who chatted with us about some basics for a couple of hours during our SKWID (Skills for Working in Development) training. And that was it.

But to live and specially work in a country, you need much more than that. At this point a good language instructor becomes essential. People think a language professor is there to tell you how to say this or that, explain some grammar rules, and correct your mistakes. And to be honest, that was what many language instructors were doing in Mozambique. But a good language instructor is, more than anything, a cultural interpreter.

Cristina, my favorite Portuguese professor
in the whole world

He or she can quickly become what in Anthropology we call a "key informant," the go-to person for anything you don't understand. Why do people behave in a certain way? What's the best way to approach this subject in this situation? Would it be correct to do this or that? A good language instructor / cultural interpreter has a good grasp of the whys and hows of their culture and can explain and answer these and million other questions about the hidden dimensions of a culture and the puzzling behaviors of its people.

We were lucky when eventually we were able to have classes with two such wonderful instructors. Arsénio had training in Linguistics and came from a very traditional style of lecturing-teaching, but had a wealth of information when it came to work relationships and communication that was eye-opening. Unfortunately, he soon left for a job abroad.


After much running around, we found Cristina Chilaule*, another wonderful professor. Not only did she have a strong work ethic, but she was able to adapt immediately to our specific needs of working professionals who needed to reach a certain communication standard quickly. More importantly, she became a window to a part of Mozambican culture we had no idea about. Because she came from a completely different background, she was able to introduce us to different aspects of the local culture and give us invaluable insights into everyday life. She even managed to teach Fadi some grammar, a never-before achieved feat! (Fadi learns languages by osmosis and had so far done without any grammar).

Definitely, a highlight of our time in Mozambique.


*If you happen to be in Maputo and in need of a Portuguese professor, contact her at chilaulecristina@gmail.com

Paseo a la biblioteca y club de inglés

No sorprende que en un país con alrededor de 50% de analfabetismo (hasta hace no tanto rondaba el 95%) y un acceso a internet que alcanza apenas un 4-5% de la población, el tema  libros y lectura deje mucho que desear. Hay pocos libros y son caros. En lenguas nativas, para niños chicos, o escrito por mozambicanos no hay casi nada. La lectura no es un hábito popular y a cualquier nivel se nota las carencias en lectura, escritura y comprensión de lo escrito.
 

Es un poco la historia del huevo y la gallina: no hay libros porque no hay lectores y no hay lectores porque no hay libros. Considerando el tema de forma más amplia, se ve enseguida que las carencias va más allá de los libros: la producción, diseminación y acceso a la información es una barrera a todo nivel.

Cuando los dos aspectos se combinan, lleva a que las pocas bibliotecas y servicios culturales que sí existen (en general gracias a centros culturales de varios países) y que están a disposición de los mozambicanos estén sub-utilizados porque la mayoría no se entera de su existencia. Como saben los que me conocen, cosa que me da fiebre es el desperdicio. Ergo, tenía que hacer algo.


Para empezar invité a mi querido grupo de Bonga Mbilo a una visita guiada al Centro Cultural Ameriano de Maputo y la biblioteca Marthin Luther King, ya que había tenido tan buena experiencia con ellos (con el taller de escritores y el panel de Fulbright). Allí, además de biblioteca y sala de computación, tienen un club de inglés, de debate, clases de informática, muestra y discusión de películas, talleres—todo gratis (se puede ver el calendario de eventos acá). ¿Cómo no aprovechar?

Asistimos a una de las clases de conversación que se dan cuatro veces por semana de nivel básico a avanzado. El día que fuimos la conversación era sobre géneros literarios de ficción y no ficción.

Observación #1: La mayoría de las veces relacionaban los géneros literarios a los géneros de películas. Una novela policial era una película de acción con polícias y ladrones. Definitivamente una cultura de lo audiovisual.

Observación #2: De los más o menos 30 participantes, sólo 2 eran mujeres. Sin comentario.

Observación #3: Además de tener la posibilidad de interactuar y oír a un hablante nativo, aprenden sobre diversos temas y otras culturas. Y por lo que ví ese día, a veces resulta en discusiones muy interesantes. Como cuando llegaron al género “Gay and Lesbian”. Hubiera estado para grabarlo...

Después de la clase subimos a la biblioteca, paraisito cómodo y acogedor, con libros de referencia, atlas, mapas, novelas, textos de estudio, revistas, diarios, DVDs. La mayoría en inglés, pero también algunos en portugués. Sacaron todos la tarjeta de la biblioteca en unos pocos minutos y después de escoger algunos libros marchamos—tras prometerme que volverían a las clases y a usar la biblioteca.


En muchas aspectos Mozambique me recuerda al Uruguay de hace 20 y tantos años. En los tiempos despuecito del fin de la dictadura, cuando en la Biblioteca Nacional no había ningún libro posterior a 1970, si le habré sacado el jugo yo a la Biblioteca Artigas-Washington de la Alianza Cultural Uruguay-Estados Unidos, a la biblioteca del Goethe Institut y varias otras. Y no hay razón para que habiendo posibilidades similares acá, los jóvenes no le puedan sacar el jugo simplemente porque no se enteran.

Writers, journalists, editors, poets, and translators

Sometimes paradise comes under the most unexpected guises. For example, a workshop with a panel of American writers, poets, journalists, editors, and translators.

Invited by the Cultural Center of the U.S. Embassy in Maputo, a group of five writers from the University of Iowa presented a series of workshops talking about what they do, why they do it, how they do it.

The audience, mostly young journalist students from Mozambique, were hungry for information and seemed eager to know more about the craft, the process, the career, the challenges. The writers were fun, honest, approachable and down to earth. Not to mention engaging and interesting. The flow of the conversation, though carried in two languages, was kept at a good pace by a very skilled interpreter and some of the participants who were bilingual. What else
can one ask?

Mozambican poets and writers also had the chance to present their work. The following day, there was more time for discussions during the presentation at the Associação dos Escritores Moçambicanos (Mozambican Writers Association). I felt fortunate to be able to fully understand the nuances of both languages and had a great time observing the coming together of these very different cultures.

You can play 'Where is Waldo' and try to find me in this photo.

Plus, in a weird way, I felt at home. It was only during these presentations that I realized how much had I been missing my readings, my writing groups, my “real” work, books, meetings with colleagues, my libraries (Oh, VPL, if you only knew how much you mean to me!). Next obvious step, was to raid the bookcases of my friends here. Picky-ness out of the window due to lack of choice, I've been reading some *interesting* stuff.


But at least I won’t read-starve.

The Polyglot Dilemma: Which language do you choose to communicate?

My Move to Mozambique? Minha mudança à Moçambique? Mi mudanza a Mozambique?
English? ¿Português? ¿Español?

The first consideration is always which language to use for the blog, as every option has its pros and cons:

* English serves in many cases as the lingua franca.

* Spanish would be easier and would reach family and friends who don't read English that easily. Plus it would serve to link and (hopefully) help to bridge that huge knowledge gap that sadly separates both continents.

* But I'll be working in MZ and I need to start using my very rusty Portuguese and bring it to an appropriate level of work-related correctness.

In all likelihood I'll be switching from one to the other, according to the mood, or the topic, or the language I've in my head at the moment. And I'll be mixing and Spanglish-izing, or Portuñol-izing, and even Engluese-izing things, butchering each language in the process. For that, I apologize to native speakers.

Using Google Translate or any other automatic translation tool will be enough to give you an idea of what the posting is about (use the button included on the right side to pick your language).

If you do know the language, in particular Portuguese, feel free to correct my writing. In no way will I get offended. On the contrary, I'll appreciate it enormously. Pointing out factual mistakes or any other inaccuracy, also appreciated.

Disclaimer.- If, initially, the postings in Portuguese seem to be a tad erratic and pointless it's because I'm following the advice I often give my students: there's no better way to learn a language than actually using it. As I haven't written in Portuguese in 20+ years, I will use any excuse to ramble in Portuguese about everything and anything even mildly related to the move to MZ. I apologize in advance.

Key combinations for funny symbols

On a related, multilingual note, I've been figuring out key combinations to be able to write in Portuguese. The c cedilha and the circumflex accent, at least on a Mac, are as follows:

Ç shift + option + c

ç option + c

ÂÔÊ option+i+[capital vowel]

â ô ê option+i+vowel

ãõ option + n
à option + `

And, while we're at it, we might as well learn the combination for Spanish symbols:

á é í ó ú option + e + vowel

ñ option + n + n

¡ option + 1

¿ shift + option + ?

Until later! ¡Hasta luego! ¡Até logo!