For all the rest, there is Mastercard

days on the boat: 22
harbors / bays in which we anchored: 6
countries visited: 2
hours of sailing: 110+
night passages: 4
hurricanes: 2

Course correction

The locals in Nova Scotia describe the waters of the Northern Atlantic as "heavy", having greater effect on the boat's keel. It often gets very rough and sea sickness medicine (Gravol) is widely used among fishermen for that reason. The medicine did help me and I was able to keep my shifts and do things around the boat, but it had the opposite effect on Lucia and she got even worse. And because we believe sailing should be fun and not a torture, we've decided to jump off and continue southbound down the eastern coast by land.

Land Ho!!!!

Yes, folks, we have made our safe passage across the Gulf of Maine from Port La Tour to Portland, ME.

It only took us about 50 some hours. It turned out that we got some excellent sailing winds leaving the coast of Nova Scotia late Friday morning. It was a little rough coming into the US Coastal waters this morning, but nothing crazy. And we got some excellent sun in the middle of the trip :)

Why sailing in cold weather is uncomfortable

Layers I wore during nights:

1 pair of rain boots
3 pairs of socks (because more didn't fit inside the boots)

Port La Tour & Barrington: what happens when you end up out in the boondocks

After staying in beautiful Carters Beach we took advantage of good sailing winds out on Wednesday and made way to Port La Tour. A desolate place with okayish protection from the sea. One major problem: no provisions, no library, no access to internet, no public transport.

Port Mouton & Carters Beach

Port Mouton ... lovely place. It may have cold waters but
it has an incredibly warm community

A wonderful little spot on the the southwestern shores of Nova Scotia. Quiet waters, beautiful white sand beaches and great friendly people.

In the wee hours of our first morning there, Stan had come up in his kayak to say hello and offer us his hospitality. He and his wife, Nalom, were great hosts: they took us in for a dinner, helped us to get fresh water and gave us a ride into Liverpool to get some provisions and run errands.

What to do on a boat

"But... what do you do on the boat?" is a question we got a few times. So, here's the answer.

On the boat, we:

sleep, cook, read a book, knit, clean the deck, play cards, work on our computers, learn how to make different knots, look for dolphins, do yoga, admire the scenery, take out the sail covers, put them back, spot whales jumping on the horizon, make a list of the things to do when on land, have a coffee, check on the bird catching a ride on the dinghy during

Around Lunenburg

As I mentioned, we survived our first overnight passage from Malagash Cove to Lunenburg, some 90 nautical miles in 22 hours. Half of that was under sail for most of which we used the main sail.

Overnight passage

Jim teaching me how to use the autohelm computer

Our last night in Sheet Harbor was spent with Wayne and Wendy, good friends of our hosts. They live in Mushaboom which is about a 15 min drive from Sheet Harbor, and around "the corner" from Malagash Cove. In fact, while Lucia and I were practicing rowing in the dingy Wayne had spotted us from shore while visiting a friend. And while waiting the next day for the wind to change, they pulled alongside in their day sailer, Nemo, to pay us a short visit.

Corte de pelo a prueba de barcos / Boat-proof haircut

Agua salada + viento + poca agua dulce + frío + falta de secador = ¡pelo hecho un desastre!

Solución: rapada.

Iba a intentar un estilo a lo Fadi pero Jim se rehusó a prestarme su rasuradora. E ir a una peluquería no es tan fácil cuando uno tiene sólo un par de horas en tierra cada un par de días. ¿Que necesito una reservación? ¡Imposible! Nunca se sabe donde vamos a estar ni cuando vamos a llegar a ningún lugar.

Pero finalmente logré encontrar una peluquería abierta en Lunenburg: www.thereadyroom.ca

Muy simpática la gente pero la gurisa que me cortó un poco inexperiente + la tijera desafilada + la apuré porque teníamos que volver al barco = oh well. Por lo menos es práctico.

Whew ...

Ok, so, we made it through our first overnight passage! Just writing a quick note from the library of Lunenberg, NS.

We had spent Tuesday night in Malagash Cove and headed out with good wind Wednesday late in the evening. Just pulled in about 5ish today (Thursday) and will be here for another day. Tomorrow we'll add more posts.

Till then ... over and out.

Yoga on the go: reality check

I bow to you, mighty sea. (c) OSJ

The northern Atlantic is known for its bad temper and rough waters, infamous for making sick even the most experienced sailors. I had to soon leave the standing tree poses for other with a lower center of gravity. Child pose practiced with your head overboard comes also very handy when you have to constantly puke. For all of you with romantic notions of life on a boat: beware!

Off we go!

Just a  quick note from the laundromat: We're heading out of sheet harbour today to moor at another point (forget the name) but its at the mouth of sheet harbour. Our next major destination is Lunenburg, NS weather permitting.

Un huracán menos

La niebla cubrió todo en la tarde.

Al final Irene pasó muy lejos. Igual, por las dudas el capitán de otro barco nos pidió amarrarse a nosotros por si la cosa se ponía complicada: cabo por todas partes a lo tela de araña.

Atados bien seguros al muelle de Sheet Harbour, pasamos la noche sin mayor contratiempo. Aunque hoy el día amaneció con un sol estupendo, todavía hay mucho viento, así que el plan es salir recién mañana.

Jim supervisando la dirección de amarras y cabos.

Seguridad en el agua

Fadi ha estado ayudando a Jim con arreglos de último minuto en el barco. Cambiaron los cables de seguridad (lifelines) que estaban oxidados por unos de acero inoxidable y Fadi puso un segundo par de remos en el bote.

Waiting ...

Hey what's up doc?

So, Irene may not be huffing and puffing through our neighborhood after all, which is a good thing! This gives us plenty of time to attend to projects on the boat to get her fully ready for sailing. Also, lots of time to notice the little things around us.

This morning I was out on the stern munching on some toast when I noticed this little guy popping his head out of the rocks in the wharf. We've noticed it earlier, but were unsure what it was. The issue was just settled at the local laundromat - it's a beaver! But I was under the impression that they had a long flat tail. Not this guy though.

So, an update on the weather. Looks like Irene will fizzle out into a "dying tropical storm" by the time it gets to our area. The Captain reckons that we'll set sail Tuesday morning. Till then we've got work to do and lots to enjoy :)

[Update AUG 30: It turns out this may not be a beaver, but a groundhog! So the controversy continues. Let us know what you think :)]

Anchored at Sheet Harbour's dock, waiting for Hurricaine Irene to hit

Our new quarters - the V-berth!

We've had a great couple of days! Our first day was getting oriented with the boat, our surroundings and most importantly our hosts. The second day was testing our systems and filling up on water. Pilger actually unfurled her foresail and jib to sail. This gave us an opportunity to get oriented with the helm and the controls, but not without any casualties - a hat fell overboard, swept of by a gust of wind. We did turn around to scoop it out, but it had sunk by the time we turned around. It was the one Lucia wanted me to throw away, so she got her wish. 

Sleeping in the v-berth is actually quite cozy and comfortable despite its looks. The reading light that I got with my case for the Kindle is handy in such a situation.

Even though there's a lot of preparation to get underway we have time to read, talk and work on our projects. So yes, I'm slowly getting used to life aboard the ship as well as getting comfortable with its sounds - especially the water slapping against the hull at night.

A few friends were concerned about Hurricane Irene hitting us and rightly so!

Finalmente en la panza de Pilger

Estoy escribiendo desde la panza de Pilger mientras está anclado a metros del East River Bridge -un viejo puente de hierro- en la comunidad de Sheet Harbour, Nova Scotia (googléenlo).